Using the new Lurkio figures I’ve painted the following to use at Usk this weekend. Here are the first few regiments
My New Years resolution is not to start painting an army before 2 weeks before the competions I need to use them for
Rise and Fall of Rome
Wars of Louis XIV
Well – playing in the Louis XIV period! there quite a variety of armies
Date: 16th & 17th February 2013
Venue: The Town Hall, Burton upon Trent, DE14 2EB
Please Note That the Council Have Introduced New Car Parking Rules at the Town Hall
To Claim Free Parking : All Drivers attending the Event have to collect a Ticket from the our Check in Desk Immediately on Arrival (Both Days!)
Fields Of Glory Ancient Doubles, – 900 points
Any Armies 500BC – 500AD
Note: FOG Ancients will use the Version 2 rules
Field of Glory Renaissance Doubles – 900 points
Any Armies From 1562 AD – 1629 AD
DBMM Doubles - 500 points
Any Armies 500BC – 500AD
Entry fee for all competitions = £25.00 per team. Please make cheques payable to ‘Burton and District DBM.’
Army lists can be E-mailed to the following address : firstname.lastname@example.org
Cheques and Written Lists should be sent to;
Dene Green, 19 Rosecroft Gardens, Swadlincote, Derbyshire, DE11 9AF
Enclosing a stamped addressed envelope or a valid e-mail address if you want confirmation of receipt.
If possible please provide an e-mail contact address as this is easiest and quickest way to contact you if there are any queries.
All now available from the Lurkio website
So Warfare came and went, unfortunately I missed out , as at the last moment my Mum was taken seriously ill. But here is the the final gallery. They were all finished in time. The overall time spent was about 10 sessions, so about 20-30 hours. I was reasonably pleased. It was hard not to revisit areas and touch up areas that didn’t fit my exacting standards the whole dip principle worked well and I would recommend if you need a speedy result.
I played the first game with it, and scored a win (beating Ottoman Turks)… so pretty good
And here is the list that makes up the army
MMmm … a half term break in York for the week and things look a little tight now. All the figures have had a block paint, but now to basing and a general tidy up. First up is the general. I used to do these last, but now I do them first as the jazziest element, rather the lacklustre finale! Seems to work better that way.
I have tried to keep that pampas grass , burnt out look. Hopefully complimenting the natural tones of the paintjob.
Its not a top drawer job, but workman like, which was always the brief. After all Its meant to only be a 2 week project.
The thing to remember with the dip technique is things will get worse before they get better! And here is testimony of this. When you put that dip on you are going to obliterate a lot of detail and get a horrible glossy finish. You’ve got to stick with it! Things will get better… but it is test of faith.
Painting step (on top of the bone spray)
The flesh triad is –
I’m warming the new GW paints now. There are a few duffers , but these 3 seems pretty good. Averland Sunset being a lovely warm ‘red’ yellow
So blocking the colours in … Your mantra here should be NEAT NEAT NEAT . Thinking that the dip will cover things up is prone to disaster. If it doesn’t then you will have painful tidy up job. Better to tidy up here.
I’m trying to stick to natural palette of oranges and browns, but I can’t help slipping in a few blues and greens. Remember that you need to be painting everything in a register brighter than normal. The dip will tone it down.
I’m using Army Painter Soft tone , which is OK. Can only really be used for ‘light’ jobs. My tin is thickening a bit, which is annoying at at £18 a tin I’m only about ½ way down. I’ve never had much success with thinning it down, the Dark tone anyway… lead me to abandoning in at as too expensive. When I thin it down it always seems to coagulate and the pigment forms ‘bits’ which a really annoying to get rid of. If I use it again I’d probably limit it to a tin an army and dip the lot in one step , to avoid evaporation
Anyway, in a brave move here are blobby stage figures, things do look bad – do not SMASH IT UP at this stage – you need to persevere!
This one is my favourite., you can see the varnish destroying all your hard work! don’t worry it will run get better
In this sitting (3-4 hours) I finished all 48 cavalry and about 40 infantry. At this rate this stage will take about 3-4 days
One thing to learn is that after you’ve gone to all that trouble to de-grease you figures, you must try not to touch them with your fingers again! If you are trying to utilise a very ‘washy’ style then you need to avoid grease spots and water beading on a greasy surface.
So with a brush in hand its starting with blocking in the colour. With prep done so far the surface is ready receptive the the paint, and you can go quite ‘thin’ The undercoat needs to be flat and no missing bits ( this is important) You want the paint to do all th shading work in this method. No golden demons here – but practical for putting 300 figures on the table in a month.
Here you can see the shading starting to come out here. It does help if the figures are crisp and well defined … and we have a top drawer product here
After a short email exchange with Ian he send me through a few sample and I’ve just knocked a couple up to see how they look painted
On first look they are a little flat, no panel lining etc. But thats no bad thing, some metal models can be a little over the top.
For a size comparison – here with some 1/44 and 1/600 (all my 1/300 are long gone)
1/350 is a unusual scale in wargaming circles. I would worry about decals etc. I used a couple of old trafalgar 1/300 ones – which are showing their age. I ‘d like to see how the ‘scale specialities’ sheets fit. The casting are nice… great being plastic (a big + IMHO).
If you went down this route you’d have to be all or nothing for this manufacturer. The BoB range is reasonably comprehensive, the Defense of the Reich ( my preferred theatre ) has a few gaps … all the ‘funnies’ … which envariably are my favourite.
But that aside the main postivite is the price! For £20-£30 you are getting 80-100 planes, which really is a massive bonus, a fraction of the price of metal.
All in all I think they are a great product. If you want to pick up a new game – all in one – cheap, you can’t go wrong with these!
I don’t think Ian has a website (lest not one I can find) and seems to sell all through ebay (which is not a plus if you don’t like ‘the man’)
At the Worlds (Derby), which brings up the list to 800pts, I’ve chosen a slightly later list where the Spanish Tercios are smaller, counting as tercio in name only. They are classified as a regular pike and shot regiment – so I’ll have to watch those flanks!
I’ve added a ‘foreign’ regiment of Germans , and some Croats