Warfare is a date restricted competition –800pts, 1562 to 1629AD. It was my original plan to use the Spanish, and they sneak in at their earliest point. However, when looking at the list its pretty drole. You will be using later tercios, you don’t get dragoons… nothing bad, but I just can’t face it. Combined with the fact that of the 20 players, I’d guess there will be 2 Samurai, 2 Quing ,a few nomadic horse type and probably premier choice of Early Swedes. The 1629 just cut-off the ‘Early Swede’s, but does allow the Ealry Gustavian Swedish. Which really has all the toys. Not the cheesy commanded shot with regimental guns but all the good things. Probably the one to beat.
I umm’d and ahh’d for a while and couldn’t really come up with anything that took my fancy , so I went a bit ‘left field’ and thought about it as an army building exercise rather than anything that would be uber competitive. So with that in mind I thought I’d do a Lurkio army – it had to come sooner or later. So I could either pick Inca or Mapuche. Give that there is about 4 weeks to go (and I’m on holiday for 1 of those weeks), Inca was probably out. I’ve noticed that the armies PBI is quite low and maybe with a great commander getting a +2 might be enough to influence the terrain…. BUT I doubt it. The Inca list I did was OK, but against any amount of horse was really going to struggle. I could buy a load of FFs but that’s not much fun. That leaves Mapuche, the latest range. These guys have more subdued attire and have 16 bases of Cavalry (Rubbish), but with a GC can get to +3 on the PBI. Gets me a reasonable chance even against the Tartars. Getting the terrain mould at least give me a chance.
The Mapuche troop types are actually reasonable against horse. A mix of ½ Pike, ½ Bow.. the Pike being HF !! The normal ‘warriors’ are Bow* , Heavy weapon. So against the Chinese and Samurai these guys would be OK. The list I drew up didn’t have as many BGS as I’d like …
I was aiming for over 20, but came in about 17 (bit but not massive) , that said 8 of those BGS are 8 strong. The real bummer with all this is that none of these guys are superior… an average fest, it was never going to win, but let’s see if it is fun.
Planning the painting.
Given there are 350-400 pieces to paint it’s going to be a workman like job, rather than a painting masterpiece. That said given the detail on the figures I had to come up with a plan that would show the detail. So, here is the plan. Using a limited pallet of neutral brown and oranges use a block painting method and use a dip to bring out the detail. Before you reel in horror, the AP can be used for good effect (check Phil Hendrys blog if you don’t believe me). There are trick to using it…
One step I though worth doing, that I normally don’t, is washing the castings.
Going for a block paint /dip I need to give every bit of detail the chance to show! It kind of came around as I was cleaning my airbrush at the time, while the figures were being prepped. Having a ultrasonic cleaner is cool and really gets the gunk out. So just water with a drop of detergent and a 20-30 min wash in the cleaner got the casting gleaming. It was a shock how much crud came off.
One other thing I did was NO cleanup … ie no cleaning mould lines, no de-flashing. This was going to show the figures warts and all. It would certainly show whether the money I spent on top drawer castings was worth it.
Once I’d organised the figures, and given them bath was the hot glue gun treatment to the lolly sticks. Next step a light dusting of white primer, not to cover, but a cutting the surface. Then investing in a ‘skeleton bone’ AP primer they all got the treatment. All 400 done in one sitting.
I’d bought a GW triad of flesh colours, but really I don’t want to be going to this level of detail. A block coat and let the dip do the work.
The game is afoot!