Lurkio DBA v3 Armies added to the website

I’ve added the following DBA v3 packs to the website

CHA03- DBA v3 Chimu Imperial Army 1350-1480AD
CHA04- DBA v3 Coastal Peruvian Army 1350-1490AD
EBA03 – DBA v3 Early Byzantine Army 493-544AD
EBA04 – DBA v3 Early Byzantine Army 545-578AD
HUA03 – DBA v3 Attila’s army 433-453AD
HUA04 – DBA v3 Other Hunnic Armies 374-558AD
INA03 – DBA v3 Inca Imperial Army 1438-1534AD
LMA01 – DBA v3 Later Moorish 25-696AD
MPA02- DBA v3 Other Mapuche 1461-1552AD
MPA03- DBA v3 Araucanians 1461-1552AD
SPA03 – DBA v3 Sassanid Persian 220-224AD
SPA04 – DBA v3 Sassanid Persian 225-493AD
SPA05 – DBA v3 Sassanid Persian 494-651AD
SRA02 – DBA v3 II/81a Sub Roman British
SRA03 – DBA v3 II/81b Sub Roman British
SRA04 – DBA v3 II/81c Sub Roman British
VGA05 – DBA v3 Italian Ostrogothic 493-561AD

please take a look if you interested

thanks
Simon
DBA v3 Armies link

DBA v3

Today my copy of DBA v3 arrived, in the continuing struggle to find rules that accommodate by collection of ancients that seem to be gathering dust. So here is a quick review based in a 10 minute flick through.image

First thing to note is the format. A4 and hardback. Definitely a move up from the A5 paper bound 2.2 rules. There are also 142 pages. So what do we get for our £20?

The rules themselves still come in 14 pages and have added what looks to be a lot of chrome. The mechanics are the same with a few more troop types with more interaction. Gladly not the brain straining my bound your bound of DBMM. There looks to be a lot of expansion in the terrain section too.FINALLY moving to an all metric measuring system – hurrah! Welcome to the 20th century!

The next section are 15 pages of diagrams. The fact that you need 15 pages of diagrams illustrates the legendary prose Mr Barker is capable of.

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I notice the comment about being understood by a dull 9 year old is now removed. Useful though to avoid argument

The last and most weighty section is the army lists. There are now nearly 300 lists. Expanding form the 3 or 4 line from the old rules, each list now has a DBM style paragraph with background and notes on the army. Most worthy as I like reading these! Especially the pithy comments … “fit only to kill chickens…”

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As I understand it great attention has been paid to the clarification and simplification of the writing style. Only time will tell on that front. Overall a nice product , looking to be worthy of the title of magnum opus, as folk are already saying

Kudos to Ancient and Modern Army Supplies (Donnington miniatures)

I’ve been roped into playing as the competition at Daventry (Campaign 2014) next week. Its teams of three, 5 games over 2 days. 6 teams so its round robin event. The periods are –

Period 1: The Fight for Dutch Independence(1568-1633) : – Early Imperial Spanish; Elizabethan English; Early Eighty Years war Dutch; Later Eighty Years War Dutch; Later Imperial Spanish (Army of Flanders); French Huguenot; French Catholic.

Period 2: Trouble in the East 1577- 1589 – Early Ottoman Turks; Wallachian, Moldavian and Transylvanian; Early Russian; Vasa Swedish; Cossack; Later Imperial Austrian; Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth; Early Venetian Colonial.

Period 3: Armies of Asia, Africa and America, between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn 1500 – 1644: – Muslim Indian, Hindu Indian, Indonesian or Malaccan; Thai, Burmese and Khmer; Vietnamese; Horn of Africa; Hawaiian; Mughal; Aztec; Tlaxcalan, Huaxtec or Otomi; Tarascan; Zapotec or Mixtec; Chinatec; Mayan; Inca; Mapuche or Araucanian; Tupi; Amazonian Forest Tribes; Chichimec; Western Sudanese; Central African; Central Sudanese; West African Forest; Mossi. (European Allies allowed – no more than 4 BG’s)

The group I’ve been put into is period 1 , So I thought I’d give my Spanish a run out.

http://lurkio.co.uk/blog/gallery/renaissance/15mm-imperial-Spanish

As its an early period the foot is later tercio which I’ve never been particularly enamoured with. So I’ thought I’d play a mounted heavy version. This required some extra figures for a German ally. With 7 days before the event , I contacted Damian at A&M about a rush order for the extra figures. With no complaint the figures were dispatched that same day, and arrived the next day. So kudos to Damian for a great service.

Painted the next day, here they are –

I love these Bandolier Reiter, useless in the game  (poor, unarmoured carbine/pistol). But really charismatic. Its like they know what is in store for them ;-)

horse1 dragoon1

 

 

FoG:R Western Sudanese

This collection came into my possession recently. Painted by John Munro, this lot won Britcon 2012 using the following list

Hausa1

West Sudanese – 800AP, winner of Britcon 2012

  • Great Commander, two TC’s and one Tuareg Ally TC
  • 1 unit Avg Lf bow 6 stands
  • 1 unit Avg LF Jls 6 stands
  • 7 units Warriors Avge Bow each of 6 stands
  • 4 units Tuareg camels Superior Light Lance Swd each of 4 stands
  • 4 units of LH Avge Light Lance Jls
  • 1 unit Cavalry Superior, Armoured Light lance, Swd 4 stands

All units unprotected other than the cavalry unit above

There is full gallery in the pages above (or)

http://lurkio.co.uk/blog/gallery/renaissance/15-west-sudanese

But here are a couple of shots –

Hausa11 Hausa2

 

 

Tabletop games day 2014

Yesterday was international tabletop games day. I normally would have gone to my LFGS , but everyone was struck with the bout of the lurgy. So rather than miss it tabletopday2014_300x250altogether it seems a good idea to lock the doors , draw the curtains and have a day altogether playing old favourite sharing our own germs. As a family affair the games would have to be kid friendly (9 & 10) and also ‘mummy’ friendly – not so easy!

www.tabletopday.com

 

 

First up was Metro. The theme being Art Nouveau Parisian rail management. It’s a simple pattern matching game as players place tiles to try and create long tracks from station to station.metro1 It’s a great kick off game as you can put as must or as little effort in (as the tile placement is quite prescribed), and other player tiles an easily mess up your well planned ideas

georgieANDloganGeorgie writes -When we played the game Metro, it was really quite fun. It was a kind of game you really had to think about and plan in your head otherwise you got really confused. I like it when you have a proper family game that nearly everyone can play plus if I got to rate it it would definitely be a 5 out of 5!

Next up was Wings of War. WW1 themed combat (in the centenary year). wog1The game is played with placement card planned for 3 moves in advance. The shooting is drawing cards from damage deck. Our game we had to call short as we had to break for dinner. It was a bit skewed by the Allies insisting on using a 2 seater! Have and fore and aft machine gun sounds like a good thing, but the single gun only has a lesser capablility. In the initial pass the Allies had the worst of it. The Nieuport took 7 damaged and damaged rudder meaning that it couldn’t turn right for the remainder of the game. The DH4 opponents drew a slew of 0 damage cards from front and aft. So advantage to the Germans , but a long way to go before we called time for lunch

georgieANDloganGeorgie writes – Unfortunately we had to stop the game in the middle but we got most of it. I like the way you don’t know what other people are going to do and your card may not work for the other players!

 

Game 3 was the choice of my little boy – Warmachine.warmachine A starter box match between Khador and Cygnar. Using the quick starter rules it makes things a lot easier and Warmachine less of a brain strain than Hordes. What’s not to like with big battling robots!

Georgie writes – War-machine. Just a game filled to the brim of plans and carefree fighting! Robots fighting robots. It does not get any better! At first I didn’t really fancy playing but now I can see how my dad and brother liked so much!

 

warmachine2

For afternoon tea we took in a little Tongiaki. A game of Polynesian island conquest.tongiaki I used to have fun with this a few years ago, but couldn’t quite get it this time round. There is partly a co-operative element where players need to group together in numbers to make sea travel less risky. The flip side of that coin is sacrificing your own pieces to send you opponents on treacherous sea voyages where sometimes they never come back!

Georgie writes – Tongiaki was a game of luck, waiting for which card would come out of the pile and seeing if you would get lost. It was a really fun and easy game to play. A good game in a short amount of time.

Finally and getting late was the old skool dungeon bash – Dungeons and Dragons. d&d2Lower the lights and get the flickering candles as a bunch of intrepid adventures must enter the dungeon to find the portal to enable the trapped children return home in time for school in the morning! This was an old Pendraken 10mm dungeon that I’ve had for many years. It’s nice to experience a 9 & 10 years olds naïve view of the dungeon experience. The simplest of encounters and traps all ‘new to young eyes’! Lovely

georgieANDloganGeorgie writes – Dungeons and Dragons!!!!!! My favourite! My dad was the dungeon master and boy he was good. The way he introduced it to us was brill. He made all dark and spooky. We came down stairs slowly. He twirled us round and round, sat us down at the table and we played. I like the way you can just ask to do anything you want and see if it happens. I asked if I could play basketball with a skeleton’s head. It smashed on the stone floor!

d&d1

 

Squarebashing Germans

The British are now all painted (just waiting to be based)

brit_fin

…now I turn my attention to the Germans. After the usual clean up and hot glue to craft sticks they are ready to go. They are new ‘re-sculpted’ Peter Pig Germans. I haven’t seen the originals so cannot compare. When comparing to the BEF I would say that they are a little finer – the facial details are certainly finer.

The BEF had taken me longer than I really wanted, it been over 2 weeks (although I have been distracted). For the Germans my original plan was to undercoat white and gloopy wash grey and then  varnish ‘stain’, in a similar way to the BEF.  But instead I thought I would cut out a stage and go for a coloured primer. I would have normally used a car primer grey (which is light and neutral), but I thought I’d try an army painter primer. I originally looked at the wolf grey (to get a bluish hue), but thought it was a little too blue. The uniform grey seemed to fit the bill, and with that purchased it was down to spraying. I did go a light dusting of white over the figures in the first instance. When using the AP primers in the past I have found  that you end up doing quite a heavy coat to cover all the bare metal. A tough of white primer first seems to alleviate that. It comes out a little brighter and stops a little of the capillary action pulling the paint into the recess.

After the priming I was pleasantly surprised that the grey had quite a blue hue to it anyway, so was I was looking for. It was a little dark though, and I did toy with the idea of airbrushing a highlight coat , or maybe a drybrush. BUT …  I reigned myself in …  this was meant to be a quick project.

germ1

So post the primer I blocked in the boots , rifle stock, pack and helmet.

Then it came to the varnish ‘dip’/’stain’. I suppose in my mind I was going to use AP dark tone. The £1 shop varnish I used last time does have a mahogany tint, and I didn’t really want to the lose the blue grey that I had achieved. The AP dark tone is based on an oily black rather than brown, so seemed to fit the bill. It also meant that the 2 protagonist armies would have a distinct tonal difference.

germ2

After that had dried , then I went back and did the face and hands. I like these to be bright, and doing this before the washes had a horrible dirtying effect. Then  a bit of red piping , and a touch of metal. Then a matt varnish and the job is complete.

germ3

Overall I’m not as happy with these as the BEF. Greens and browns are much easier to pull together with this sort of wash technique. My complaints are , they are too dark for my tastes. germ4The AP dip is very strong. The base coat was a little too dark. If I had stuck to my original plan and gone white – acrylic wash , then I could have had more control and that stage does add a highlighting element. The overall figures just have a flat appearance with little in the way of contrast.germ5

 

 

That said its all about getting the soldiers on the table , for this project I can let it slide.

There are more Germans than British, so I will allow myself another 2 weeks to get these done. I should probably think of this in terms of 37 days …  a countdown to war…

A little bit of Squarebashing

After being caught up with all the centenary media (esp 37 Days), I thought that this year would be a good idea to do a little WW1. The remit of this project would that it would be up and running in a few weeks. Concentrating on the very early part of the war I needed to be playing while the period was still ‘hot’. With that in mind here is my tutorial on how to paint 200 infantry in about 2 weeks.

The first army will be the small British BEF. My preferred 15mm manufacturer being Peter Pig. The reasons being – neatly cast (no cleanup) , comprehensive range , quirky looking sculpts (with a reasonable high relief – more on that later)…. And finally ‘all round good eggs at PP’

With this in mind I will commit to do the whole of the army in a single ‘process batch’. Here are the steps –

prep1

Debag the figures.
Clean up (none), other than a scrape along the bottom to keep the base flat
Hot glue gun them lolly sticks (the large ‘tongue depressor’ type). Bagful for a £1 at a craft shop/works

prep2

Primer. I picked PSC German Dunkel Gelb for this job. It has a rather pleasing green hue, and it light and bright. As the project would be a ‘wash’ project then at this stage you can afford to be light and bright. The subsequent washes will bring it down (and I like bright!)

prep3

Primary Wash. Mix up a big batch of gloopy paint wash. There wasn’t much method to this. It was just a mix of khaki and green (Vallejo Brown violet) until it was an approximation of the colours I was aiming for.

prep4

Mix to milky consistency, a bit of acrylic flow improver (vital to avoid tide marks). But on a ‘spray primer’ I find that the surface tension means that you do get a good capillary action. The main worry is that this is too much and the paint pools. Flow improver is good for that. The best I’ve found is GW Lahmian medium (but it is expensive) and for smaller batches I’d recommend. But in this case I just use a cheapo (Windsor and Newton)..

prep5As you can see at this stage you don’t have to be be too fussy and can really blob it on. When it dries it will shrink back and you are trying to use the paint over the primer to do your shading.
At this point I’m going to block paint all the main areas of colour. So, webbing and pack with a lighter canvas colour, rifle stock brown. Not leave the face at this point. The face is the only thing I’m going to paint. The face is a focal point for the eye, do this well and all else if forgiven

 

 

Shading Wash. Once you this has dried (leave overnight) then comes the varnish wash. This is a red/brown/mahogany darkoakthat I bought from a £1 shop. Thinned down with turps to a very wet wash and lather it on. All the figure brightness will drop anyway at this point. You can use Army painter dips (which are probably better colour ranges) , but the only thing I find is that they give a waxy finish when dry and its hard to paint any detail over later. I might use AP dip for the Boche later. I like my cheap dip, as it had a Polyurethane finish and acts as a hard coat and can easily be painted over.

prep6

Leave to dry for 2 days. This stuff take a long time to dry, and is really stinky , so is best left outside (or in a shed)

Then it is really the home run.

Face painting. A orange brown base coat foe hands and face, then AP tanned flesh and AP barbarian flesh ( I bought a new brush for this, just for a crisp edge). As I said it you do a good face then all else will be overlooked. This triad does give quite a ruddy complexion , but as this was a decision to contrast with uniform (and bring out the greens) .. red and green been complementary on the colour wheel.
You may choice to put in a little paint over the webbing and bring out a strap or two.

fin1

The final stage being the matt varnish. I like a lead chromate based paint (outside job) , 1407 Rail Match Matt Varnish. I have been using this for 20 years and have found no equal (and I tried them all!)

fin2

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